Roof Inspection Checklist: What a Pro Actually Looks For

Most homeowners have no idea what happens during a roof inspection. You call a roofer, someone shows up, walks around for 20 minutes, and hands you a report. But what are they actually looking at? What separates a thorough inspection from someone who glances at your shingles and calls it a day?

Here's the full breakdown — every single thing a qualified roof inspector checks, why each item matters, and the red flags that mean you need to act fast. If you're scheduling a professional roof inspection in Charlotte or just trying to make sense of that report you got last week, this is the checklist.

Part 1: The Exterior Inspection (What They See from the Roof)

This is the meat of any roof inspection. A good inspector spends the majority of their time on or directly observing the roof surface. Here's what they're checking, section by section.

Shingles

Shingles are the first line of defense, and they tell a lot of the story. A pro inspector looks at:

Granule loss: Run your hand across a shingle and it should feel slightly gritty — that's the granule coating that protects the asphalt from UV. When granules are gone, you'll see dark, smooth patches. Heavy granule loss in gutters and downspout splash areas is a clear sign the shingles are aging out.
Curling: Shingle edges should lie flat. When they curl upward (cupping) or the tab edges turn downward (clawing), moisture is getting in. Curling usually means the shingle is past its useful life.
Cracking: Hairline cracks from thermal expansion and contraction. A few cracks on a 15-year-old roof aren't unusual. Widespread cracking across multiple shingles means the material is breaking down.
Missing shingles: Obvious, but worth stating. Any bare spots where you can see the underlayment or decking need immediate attention.
Blistering: Small raised bumps on the shingle surface. Caused by moisture trapped in the shingle during manufacturing or by poor attic ventilation. Open blisters let water in.
Algae and moss: Black streaks (algae) are cosmetic in the short term but can accelerate granule loss over time. Green moss is more serious — it holds moisture against the shingle surface and can work its way under shingle tabs, creating lift points.

Flashing

Flashing is the metal (usually aluminum or galvanized steel) installed wherever the roof meets a wall, chimney, skylight, vent pipe, or valley. It's meant to direct water away from these vulnerable seams. An inspector checks for:

Lifted or separated flashing: If the flashing has pulled away from the surface it's supposed to seal against, water is getting behind it.
Rust or corrosion: Rusted flashing is weakened flashing. It needs replacing.
Improper caulking: Flashing should be mechanically fastened, not just caulked in place. Caulk-only installations are a red flag for amateur work.
Step flashing at sidewalls: Where a roof meets a vertical wall (like a second story or a dormer), individual pieces of step flashing should weave between each row of shingles. Missing or improperly installed step flashing is one of the most common leak sources in Charlotte homes.

Valleys

Roof valleys — where two roof planes meet and funnel water downward — handle more water volume than any other part of your roof. Inspectors look for:

Worn shingles in the valley: The constant water flow wears valley shingles faster than the rest of the roof.
Exposed or damaged valley flashing: Metal valley flashing should be intact and sealed properly.
Debris accumulation: Leaves, pine needles, and branches in valleys trap moisture and accelerate deterioration.

Roof Vents and Penetrations

Every pipe, vent, and penetration through your roof is a potential leak point. A thorough inspector checks each one:

Vent pipe boots: The rubber or neoprene boots around plumbing vents crack and deteriorate in Charlotte's heat. A cracked vent boot is probably the most common minor roof leak — and the cheapest fix (about $150-$250). Inspectors check every one.
Ridge vent condition: The ridge vent running along the peak of your roof should be firmly attached with no gaps, lifted sections, or visible daylight from the attic side.
Bathroom and kitchen exhaust vents: These should terminate through the roof, not into the attic. An inspector verifies they're properly flashed and sealed.
Satellite dish or antenna mounts: Any bolt or screw driven through the roof creates a potential leak. Inspectors check the sealant around each penetration.

Chimneys

Chimneys are one of the most leak-prone areas on any roof. A pro checks:

Chimney flashing: Both the base flashing (against the chimney) and the counter flashing (embedded in the mortar) should be intact and sealed.
Cricket or saddle: On the uphill side of a chimney wider than 30 inches, there should be a peaked diverter (cricket) to route water around the chimney. If it's missing, water pools behind the chimney and eventually leaks.
Mortar and crown condition: Cracked mortar joints and a deteriorated chimney crown let water into the chimney structure, which can cause interior leaks that appear to be roof leaks.

Skylights

Skylights are notorious leak sources, especially older ones. Inspectors check the flashing kit around the skylight frame, the condition of the glazing seal, and whether the surrounding shingles are properly integrated with the flashing.

Gutters and Downspouts

Gutters aren't technically part of the roof, but they directly affect roof performance. An inspector looks at:

Proper attachment: Gutters should be firmly attached to the fascia with no sagging sections.
Slope and drainage: Water should flow toward downspouts, not pool in the middle of a gutter run.
Granule accumulation: Excessive granules in gutters indicate advanced shingle wear.
Fascia board condition: Rotting fascia behind the gutter is a sign of chronic water overflow or ice dam damage.

Part 2: The Interior Inspection (What They See from the Attic)

A roof inspection that skips the attic is incomplete. Half of what goes wrong with a roof shows up from underneath before it shows up on top. Here's what an inspector checks inside your attic.

Ventilation

Proper attic ventilation is critical for roof longevity. Without it, heat and moisture build up, cooking your shingles from the inside and promoting mold growth. An inspector checks:

Intake vents (soffit vents): Air needs to enter at the bottom of the attic through soffit vents. These should be clear and unobstructed — not blocked by insulation, bird nests, or paint.
Exhaust vents (ridge vents, gable vents, powered vents): Hot air needs to exit at the top. The inspector verifies sufficient exhaust capacity and that the system creates proper airflow.
Balanced airflow: The ratio of intake to exhaust matters. Too much exhaust and not enough intake can actually pull air the wrong way, drawing moisture into the attic.

Insulation

Insulation doesn't just affect energy bills — it affects roof performance. An inspector checks:

Depth and coverage: Charlotte-area homes should have R-38 to R-49 insulation in the attic (roughly 12-16 inches of blown-in insulation). Thin spots and bare areas mean heat loss in winter and heat gain in summer.
Moisture in insulation: Wet or compressed insulation is a sign of a current or past leak.
Insulation blocking soffit vents: Insulation that covers soffit vents kills your airflow. Baffles should be installed to keep the vents clear.

Water Stains and Damage Signs

From inside the attic, an inspector looks for:

Water stains on rafters or decking: Dark spots or water marks indicate past or active leaks. The location doesn't always match where the leak enters from outside — water can travel along rafters before dripping.
Daylight showing through: If you can see light coming through the roof decking, so can water.
Mold or mildew: Dark spots on the underside of the decking or on rafters. This indicates chronic moisture problems, usually from poor ventilation rather than a single leak.
Sagging decking: Plywood decking that dips between rafters has been water-damaged and weakened. This is a serious issue that means the decking needs replacing during any roof repair or replacement.

Drone Inspections vs. Ladder Inspections

More and more Charlotte roofing companies are using drones for roof inspections, and the technology has gotten impressively good. Here's how the two methods compare.

Drone inspections are fast (15-20 minutes for most homes), safe (nobody on the roof), and produce high-resolution photos and video from every angle. They're excellent for documenting hail damage, getting overhead shots of hard-to-reach areas, and creating a complete visual record for insurance claims. Some companies use thermal imaging drones that can detect moisture trapped under shingles.

Ladder inspections give you something a drone can't: touch. A roofer on the roof can press on shingles to feel for soft spots, lift tabs to check adhesive, and physically test flashing. They can walk valleys and feel if the decking underneath is spongy. For an aging roof where the question is "how much life is left," hands-on inspection is hard to beat.

The best inspections use both. Drone footage gives the big picture, ladder access gives the details. If a company only offers one or the other, that's fine — just know what you're getting.

When to Get a Roof Inspection

You don't need an inspection every year if your roof is relatively new. But there are specific times when getting one is worth every penny:

After any major storm: Hail, high wind, or fallen debris. Even if you don't see obvious damage from the ground, get it checked. Hail damage is often invisible without a close-up look. Read more about handling storm damage claims in Charlotte.

Before buying a home: A standard home inspection includes a roof check, but it's usually a general overview. If the roof is over 10 years old, hire a dedicated roofing inspector for a more thorough assessment.

When your roof hits 15 years: Even if nothing looks wrong, a 15-year-old asphalt shingle roof is past its midpoint. An inspection at this age gives you a baseline and helps you plan for eventual replacement.

Before listing your house for sale: Buyers will inspect your roof. Knowing its condition beforehand lets you address issues on your terms rather than during the negotiation pressure of a pending sale.

If you notice interior signs: Water stains on ceilings, musty smells in the attic, or higher-than-usual energy bills can all point to roof problems.

What a Good Inspection Report Includes

When the inspection is done, you should receive a written report — not just a verbal summary. A quality report includes:

Date of inspection, weather conditions, and inspector's name and credentials
Photos of the entire roof (overhead and close-up)
Specific photos of any damage or concerns, with annotations
Assessment of remaining useful life for the shingles
Condition ratings for each area checked (shingles, flashing, vents, gutters, attic)
Specific repair recommendations with estimated costs
Recommendation on whether repair or full replacement is the better option

If a roofer gives you a verbal-only assessment with no photos and no written report, that's not a professional inspection. Get a second opinion.

Red Flags That Mean You Need Immediate Attention

Most inspection findings fall into the "keep an eye on it" or "fix it when you're ready" category. But a few findings mean you need to act now:

Active leaks: Water currently entering the home. Don't wait — get a repair scheduled in Charlotte immediately.
Sagging roof lines: Visible from the ground as a dip or sag in what should be a straight ridge line. This indicates structural problems — failed rafters, damaged decking, or worse.
Widespread mold in the attic: A few spots of mold are a ventilation issue. Widespread black mold across the entire underside of the decking is a health concern and a sign of chronic, serious moisture problems.
Multiple active leak sources: One leak is a repair. Three or four leaks in different locations usually means the roof system has failed and needs replacement.
Decking that gives when walked on: Soft, spongy decking means water damage has compromised the structural plywood. This can't be patched — it needs to be replaced.

If any of these show up in your inspection report, don't sit on it. Schedule a follow-up with a licensed Charlotte roofing contractor to get a repair or replacement plan and estimate. Roof problems don't get cheaper with time — they get worse.

What an Inspection Costs in Charlotte

A standalone professional roof inspection in the Charlotte area runs $150-$400, depending on the size and complexity of the roof. Some roofers offer free inspections if you're considering repair or replacement work — just make sure "free" doesn't mean "quick and shallow."

For insurance claim inspections (like after a hailstorm), most roofing companies do these at no charge because they expect to do the repair work if the claim is approved.

For real estate transaction inspections, expect to pay the $150-$400 range. It's a small price for knowing exactly what you're buying — or what you need to fix before selling.

If you haven't had your roof looked at in a few years, or if you've noticed any of the warning signs mentioned in our guide to signs your roof needs replacing, now is a good time to get on the schedule. Charlotte's storm season starts in April, and it's better to know where you stand before the weather tests your roof again.